"THERE WAS NOWHERE TO GO BUT EVERYWHERE" - JACK KEROUAC
(written 1.26.2017)
Yesterday we left Puerto Vallarta, setting out for a small town called Chamala, which we heard about from our new friend Andrea. She said it was one of her favorite spots in all of Mexico, peaceful and unspoiled, so undoubtedly we were excited to get there. After a quick three hour drive we were turning off of the highway onto the dirt track that snaked towards the beach. Almost instantly we came upon a new chain link gate across the path with a sign that contained the dreaded words “Propiedad Privada”. Our plans were dashed. Somewhat discouraged we decided to drive another 30 minutes to our backup spot Playa Chica at Arroyo Seco. Whatever stain the frustration of not being able to camp where we wanted had left was instantly scrubbed away as we pulled up to the most idyllic beach we have seen so far, absolutely untouched by man, completely secluded and roaring with waves. Another reminder from the universe that while you can’t always get what you want, what you need may be right around the corner. (written 1.17.2017)
Cerritos felt like home when we arrived because we were familiar with the landscape. As we get prepared to leave it feels like home because of the wonderful people we met. Nita and Bianca found us on the beach, where they helped us spot whales. Originally from South Africa, Nita has lived in El Pescadero for 16 years. Her daughter Bianca spent some of her childhood here and was visiting for the first time in over 11 years. From the start they were lovely in every regard of the word. I don’t know what the best part of our time spent with them was, our daily chats and swims at Cerritos, the dancing in Todos Santos or the amazing night of hot dogs, wine and a campfire at Nita’s house. Even though our time together was brief in the number of days the memories will be long lasting and their friendship forever cherished. (written 1.9.2017)
Time is already bleeding. We’re now just short of two weeks on the road and I had to look at a calendar to figure that out. In a way we’ve come full circle. Back to the beginning of the idea. We’ve made it to Cerritos Beach where the yearlong trip was first proposed over beers on a rooftop in 2015. Hard to believe that it’s all come to fruition. Since departing San Andres of the Seven Sisters we’ve traveled approximately 1000km. We spent a night swimming in the lake at San Ignacio and exploring the mission that was built there in the late 1700s. We drove towards the morning sun and the Sea of Cortez where we ran into friends and spent two nights on the idyllic Bahia de Concepcion. Another long day of driving led us back to the Pacific at El Conejo and some of the best waves we’ve seen so far. Our camp site was so close to the ocean that our vans were constantly covered in sea spray. But coming back to Cerritos in a way feels like coming home. Somewhere familiar that is already wrapped in a warm haze of memories. After so much movement we’re both ready to settle in for a bit. The hot showers and wi-fi at the Pescadero Surf Camp might be playing into that a bit too. |
AuthorMatthew Lautzenheiser - Conquistador of the Useless. Archives
April 2017
Categories |